There are fruit trees suitable for every garden, big or small. For smaller gardens there are dwarf and semi dwarf varieties and the possibilities of training trees against a wall, fence, trellis or similar structure (espallier) and, of course, in large gardens the choice is endless.

The Best Site...

Sunlight is an important requirement. The ideal site is open and sunny all day. Its better not to plant fruit trees if you have sun only half a day.

The Best Soil...

Fruit tress do better in deep fertile well drained soil but can be grown in ordinary garden soil if well prepared, dig in peat moss or Kings compost to improve the soil structure and nutrient levels, make the soil friable for root development and for moisture retention.

USE KINGS GENERAL GARDEN FERTILISER AT PLANTING TIME FOR ALL YOUR FRUIT TREES.

Always put 1/2 the fertiliser at the bottom of the hole and place the tree roots on top then backfill the hole with soil and compost mixed, then sprinkle the remaining fertiliser around the soil close to the plant but not touching the stems.

PLANTING:

Done between late autumn early spring. Preferably late autumn if the soil is free draining through the winter. With heavy soils, spring planting is best. The planting hole must be at least a metre wide to accomodate the full root spread. Add slow release fertiliser such as Kings 24 Plus.

Remember to stake the tree and then back fill the hole. Firm the soil lightly by treading down on the soil with your foot.

GENERAL CARE:

control weeds at the base of the tree as they will complete for nutrients. Light hoeing to a shallow depth or spraying with herbicide followed by regular mulching is ideal. The mulch will control weeds and help keep the moisture in the root area. Feed your trees, especially in early spring, with Kings Citrus and Fruit trees fertiliser to help achieve healthy growth and bumper crops. A late winter dressing of lime may be beneficial too. Remember to sprinkle your fertiliser around the drip line (directly below the outside branches) where the feeding roots are and water in well.

SPRAYING FOR PESTS AND DISEASES:

The secret to healthy growth and perfect, clean fruit is to spray your fruit trees regularly. In winter, a regular application of Yates Champ DP and Conqueror Spraying Oil will help control over wintering pests and diseases. During flower burst, Yates Bravo or another good fungicide will help prevent fungal problems getting in as the fruit develop. Remember Kings helpful and knowledgeable staff are only to pleased to advise you on the right remedies to all your fruit tree problems.

PRUNING:

The following notes apply to the "wine glass" or "pen centre" style of tree. This aims to develop a strong framework which will allow maximum sunlight to aid fruit development, combined with easy maintenance. Always remove major branches by cutting flush to the trunk (protruding butts may encourage borer). Smaller cuts should be made on an angle about 15m above an outward facing bud to promote growth away from the centre of the tree. Seal cuts above 2cm in thickness with a pruning paste. Prune only on fine days and burn all prunings or remove from property. Always use tools that are sharp and clean.

FIVE BASIC PRUNING STEPS

For all trees have a good look at the tree you are about to prune, then:

1. remove all diseased, damaged or dead wood.

2. remove any branches that are crossing or rubbing

3. remove all water shots (those long growth sprouts that grow straight up vigorously)

4. remove branches that are growing back into the centre of the tree

5. now, thin over crowded areas of your tree's canopy and shape according to its variety.

To prune a plum tree:

-Japanese varieties: Should be pruned to a strong framework to hold the many fruiting spurs at a workable height. Thin these spurs only lightly, spurs at a workable height. Thin these spurs only lightly in mid autumn. Other excessive srout growth should be remove also, to direct energy to be fruiting spurs.

-European varieties: will need heavier pruning to maintain shape. Cut long shooting branches by 2/3. Thin over crowded areas by cutting shoots back to resrict excessive branching.

To prune an apple tree:Apple trees can fruit on new shoots or regularly on older developed spurs. Leave these spurs where possible and formative prune other wood to maintain shape. A good tree will have 3 or 4 main limbs from which the secondary framework of the tree is controlled by cutting shoots by 2/3's to an outward facing bud. Prune for shape in winter and control one vigorous sprouts in summer

To prune a pear tree:as described for apples

To prune peach or necterine trees:Both are free growing trees that make dense growth. Peaches generally grow wide while necterines tend to be more upright. Both fruit on wood developed last summer. Aim to control your tree without cutting too much new wood out. Inspect the buds on newer wood, single buds are leaf buds, double buds are immature fruit buds, triple buds are mature fruit buds. Cut to outward facing double buds but try to leave triples. Summer pruning will be necessary every 7 years or so.

Remember to secure your new fruit trees using stakes and plant ties from Kings extensive range.